Stage 15 Report: Sandhills Flyway

Saturday, June 10, 2017
Start: Broken Bow, NE
Finish: Hyannis, NE
Total Biking Mileage: 92.6 mi
Cumulative Bike Mileage: 1309.3 mi

Awoke early and ate a hearty breakfast at comfortable Cobblestone Inn located on the northern end of Broken Bow. We had heard about Adams Feed Lot from our waitress, Chantilly, the night before and decided to drive a few minutes to take a quick look before starting our day's bike ride. Cool crisp clear skies. We headed by van south along Rt21 a mile or two outside of town and followed the searing manured aroma to find thousands of head of cows penned along the hillside and valley at Adams Land and Cattle (known locally as the "feed lot" www.adamslandandcattle.com). Chomping on grains in muddy pens we spoke with a supervisor who had a careful in eye on our reason for being there, albeit not trespassing in any way parked just off the road at a good viewing spot. We chatted and he answered a few of our questions amicably, shot a few photos of the staring cows and then headed back to the hotel to start cycling. I wondered if the cows knew the difference between their lives and their country cow cousins mowing grassy fields and lounging amidst shaded trees with gorgeous views. Who knows? But I can't overcome my own curiosity at the thousands upon thousands of cows and bulls, and their young, throughout our journey to date across mostly rural America who nearly always seem to "have a cow," of sorts, about our own passage beside their pastured lands. The most curious among them will detect our oncoming presence from as much as a half mile away, then in domino fashion, gradually the entire herd will either turn their heads or rise from lounging, and if we're fortunate once in a while, the leader of the pack will coax them all to a full gallop on our chase, inevitably ending at the barbed wire fences that delineate their world. Can't ever stop being curios myself as to why they are so curious in us.

So back to cycling... we departed Broken Bow and continued northwestward along the Scenic Sandhills Hwy2. Immediately, the winds greeted us gustily. Wow! 20-25 mph headwinds right into our faces! Here we go again! It takes a good 5-10 mi on a nice relaxing day for our quadricep muscles to usually awaken and accept breakfast-infused nutritional blood flow. No time for that today to steadily gain our road warrior legs. Bam! Another gust that tries to knock us sideways off our bikes. I laugh. I accept the challenge. I admire the enveloping beauty of the Sandhills, the changing contours and colors of the land, as Mike and I share turns at the lead "pulling" each other through the hurricane windy flyaway.

One very small town, then the next. Small oases through the day. Limited access to water or nutrition, Happy Api was wonderful-meeting us 15-20 miles for cold water refills and nutrition and encouragement and smiles and laughter at our jokes. This young woman has a sparkle about her, a natural loving and nurturing nature. A new friend for me-always will stand as the greatest of all gifts.

The heat progressed as the winds consistently blew. Sun and wind, sand and hills, train tracks and coal trains, streams becoming rivers near the entrance to the Nebraska National Forest, the scenery ever steady but always being transformed. A computer monitor screensaver of imagery enveloping with each passing mile. By 68 miles along Hwy2 we met Happy Api at a shady grove located at the town of Thedford at the junction of Hwy2 and Rt83, slightly dehydrated and spent from the headwinds, and acting on a top from Terry, a Nebraskan we had met back in Kansas a few days prior who highly recommended a cycling visit to the Valentine area, we packed into the van and enjoyed the air conditioned 66 mi ride to the town of Valentine, NE while crossing over a high bridge over the over 500 mi long Wyoming-Nebraska flowingly gorgeous Niobrara River, a Mecca for canoe, kayak and tubing enthusiasts.

We arrived to Valentine with rabid appetites. But first, holy cow!, a huge store in the heart of downtown, Young's Western Wearhouse on 143 N Main St (Facebook: Young's Western Wear) where we were greeted by friendly staff and the owner, Mike Young. I am rarely in a shopping mood but this place was all fun for this cow-pasture induced drunken cowboy wanna-be. They even had a saddle to hop onto to absolutely verify that my carefully chosen new cowboy hat fit just right on this born and bred New Yorker's noggin. Indeed it did! Handsome as a cow lick in the Sandhills Niobrara moon light, if I may say so. Api and the Mikes agreed. It was me, all right. Sold! A real arm twister?! Gifts? Hmm. A few surprises for my family, perhaps...

Thanks Young's. That is one fun store!

We had a delicious dinner just down the street at the Peppermill Restaurant, generous portions to resupply our glycogen and protein storage. An evening "Dam" cycle ride in the cooler waning sun heading south from Valentine along Rt97/Merritt Dam Rd awaited us.

Oh my! The Bikeoo Buddha was Zen-ing within a few peddle strokes. Evening fiery sundown over Sandhill ranches and wildness, birds chirping, cooling breezes, the Niobrara River - earth, air, water, fire - the alchemy aligned in syzygian moment in my life course. Love and Happiness - these are the only everlastingly meaningful shared memories once all the alchemic vapors are boiled away and only the magical doradoic residue of one's life remains.

I was connecting the elements, joyful tears, solemn peacefulness. In this moment, cycling is no chore, feet gliding on a slipstream of cushioned clouds, no pain, no worry, only peace of heart and mind.

The sunset quickened. A melting lozenge in the western sky. We arrived at the Merritt Dam, greeted by a scoop (er, flock) of White Pelicans enjoying a lake swim, we climbed the last hillside of this glorious Sandhills day, blessed the elements, and unhinged from our peddles.

Van ride to darkness falling, we vaned southward along the circuitous remains of Rt97, Turned west back onto Hwy2, and arrived to the Hyannis Hotel, a "Bikers Welcome" sign out front, to spend the quiet peaceful night.

Bikeoo

Weather, do not fret

Cyclists ride, hot or wet - Yet

Highwinds conquer all

Indexes

Weather: (8)
Hot afternoon battling headwinds, wonderful evening ride

Terrain: (9)
Mostly flat in day, rollers in evening

Scenic: (9)
Sandhills for miles. Kept thinking there should be an ocean to enjoy nearby (memories of sand dunes in Cape Cod), train tracks forever

Endurance: (9.5)
Tough fight into headwinds, done afternoon fatigue, pleasant replenishing Zen evening

Wildlife and Roadkill:
W-deer, flock (scoop) of American White pelicans, multiple songbirds and numerous Sandhill native Prairie birds, lake sparrows
R-songbirds, raccoons, rabbit, white skin snake with black speckles, deer

Medical Report;
M-butt
D-butt, R rib strain but don't feel it biking

Bike Report:
No issues

Still Having Fun: (10)
Nebraska Sandhills dreaming... how so beautiful. And I have my "it's so you!" cowboy hat! Getting ready for the Badlands...